The only thing for sure that can tell trash from treasure is a shovel. .
Tired of loose detector knobs? A 17c Tip I went to a hardware store today & for 17c each got an o-ring for the Tesoro Eldorado GB Knob & the Fisher 1266-X Sens Knob. It took about 30 seconds to slip the o-rings over the knob & into place, They worked great the knobs now stay in position. Take your detector with you to make sure you get the correct o-ring size. Posted on Coinist's MD Forum April 24, 2000
Pinpointing - A simple way to detune any detector with a pinpointing feature is when the coil is over the approximate center of the target quickly release and squeeze the trigger. This will shrink the target size making the target easier to locate. You can repeat this detuning as many times as necessary. If you completely lose the signal move your coil off to the side of the target, release & squeeze the trigger, and then repeat the above procedure.
Hi Rick, the real trick to using discrimination is to be able use the correct amount of discrimination based upon the site you are hunting. When you are in an older place I would use the minimum disc necessary to do a realistic job of hunting. In newer trashy areas I would tend to use more disc and dig less trash while going for more coins. I don't think anyone should use a preconceived disc setting as one should be flexible and set it according to the site one is hunting. Posted on the Old Tesoro Forum May 18, 1998
Ground Balancing - The way to check your detectors ground balance or automatic ground balance adjustment is to hold the detector about two feet in the air (while in All Metal Mode) and quickly lower the coil to about one inch above the ground. If you hear a slight increase in the threshold that means the detector is balanced slightly positive. Which is the setting preferred by most detectorists. If the threshold increases a lot or the detector gives of a loud beep the detector is set too positive. If the threshold decreases and then gets loud when you raise the coil the detector is set too negative. If changing an IDX's ground balance adjustment keep in mind that it could throw off the ID accuracy. If you do not feel confident making an adjustment to your detector let it alone or take it to someone who is experienced at making these adjustments.
Inexpensive Headphones - If you are looking for a good pair of headphones I would go with the Optimus Pro 35 or the Optimus Pro 40 set made by Koss at Radio Shack. On sale the Pro 35' s (which are a small light weight set) can be purchased for around $20 & the Pro 40's (which are a full size set) can be purchased for less than $50. The Pro 40's (Official Rock & Roll Headphones) don't have a volume control but you can get an adaptor with a volume control for about $3.95. Or if your detector has a volume control you may not need one. The other inexpensive set I would recommend is the Calrads for about $20. For the price they can't be beat as I keep a set in my trunk as a backup.
Hunting Football Fields As always if there is a concession stand or ticket booth. Basically where ever money is exchanged I would search around. As far as the field itself I have done the best from the 10 yard lines into the end zones as most kids that play on the football fields will only play on one side of the field. The players in football games will usually not lose much as they are wearing uniforms (not carrying money). But anyway most of what is lost on the football fields come from the cheer leaders along the sidelines (Jewelry) or kids playing pick up games around the end zones (especially under the goal posts). Check good around the end zone lines as kids will dive into the end zones while copying their favorite players. These are the areas I would search first. If you have time I would windmill around the whole field. If there are grassy areas where people sit around the field or if they park their cars in grassy areas around the field these are good spots also. I have found many rings and some silver coins on football fields so take your time and have fun. PS keep your eyes open while you are hunting as I eyeballed an expensive gold & silver religious cross laying on the ground in the end zone with a value of $200 to $400.
Digging more signals For those that are using a Target ID when digging a variety of signals you will have a better chance at Jewelry, Tokens, & say an Old Silver Quarter & Nickel in the same hole which depending on the placement of the coins may read like a tab or a zinc for example. As always there are trade offs. By digging more you will probably come home with less coins as you will be digging more non coin signals but your chance for a truly great find will be increased by finding a target such as: Gold, Tokens, Flying Eagles, IH's, 3 Cent Pieces, Rings & Jewelry, & finding more than one type of coin in the same hole or a good target in the same hole with a piece of junk. Also don't forget to rescan the hole after you remove an unwanted pull tab or piece of junk as you may have removed the mask that was covering a nice coin.
Too Much Emphasis on The Detector and Not the Detectorist? With all the discussions about which brand & model detector is the best. I think the one thing that is often left out of the discussion is the person doing the detecting. I think the finds of Karl Von Mueller, H Glenn Carson, & Charles Garrett would top most of ours. Even with us using the new top of the line brands & models. If a good target is around any detectorist worth his salt is going to find it with any of the top brands. To sum it up: They'd take their detector and beat yours and then take your detector and beat theirs. Posted on the Old Tesoro Forum January 21, 1998
How to Find the Old Ones Pick out an old site and go slow. Most of the old ones will be deeper which means the detector signal (which is like this V) will just about have to be right over the center of the target to detect it. Then if you add in the presence of junk or a coin on end you get the idea. Slow down, dig the weak & iffy signals, and you will start to find more of the the old ones. Posted on Coinist's MD Forum August 18, 2001
Whats the safest way to trade detectors without getting burnt. I would be grateful for any tips. JC First find out who you are trading with. Also you could involve a third party that each of you trust. Each of you send your detector to him and then if he gets what each of you said he should in the way of detectors he sends them to both of you. If he doesn't think one or both of the detectors is what it is supposed to be he contacts both of you and finds out how you want to proceed. There is no 100% sure way. Even on a COD transaction someone can send you a box of garbage as most postmen will not let you inspect the contents of the box as they consider it a done deal when they deliver the package. Posted on Coinist's MD Forum January 17, 2002
Urban Coinshooting for Older Coins
You live in a city or urban area and you have to work for a living which means your hunting and traveling time is limited but you would still like to find some old coins to go along with the clad coins that you find at the modern parks and schools. Today is special in that you don't want to settle for some clad coins you would like to find an old coin to post about finding on your favorite forums and show to your friends. It's summer and although researching is important today you just feeling like hunting. The wife and kids have gone to her parents house for the day and now it's time to hunt.
You are having your morning coffee and thinking where to go to find some older coins. Obviously you need and older site. The older sites you are aware of come to mind. Should I give the old 1800's park another try even though it has been pounded hard and hunted for years? Let's see are there any spots there that could have been missed by others? There is the slope area surrounding the old pond and skating rink that may make a good area to hunt as others may have overlooked it or only hunted it for a short time simply because it was too hard of work detecting on the side of a hill. Then there are the areas around the base of the trees or the flower beds that are just dirt now as the flowers may not have been planted yet. Then there is the area where they removed the old fence and are going to put up a new fence around the old house in the park. That would open up a strip of ground a couple feet wide around the house which might contain an old coin or two. Are there any entrance and exit routes leading to and from the park that may not have been searched much if at all? How about the area right next to the sidewalk that runs thru the park?
Then there is the old school. While myself and others have hunted the main school yard many times what about the not so obvious areas or the surrounding areas?. For instance the area between the street and curb that surrounds the school. Or what about the front of the school as it may not have been hunted as much since the hunter would be more visible to the public and some tend to shy away from that. Also there are those big bushes in front of the old school that may not have always been there. Could they be hiding and old coin or two? What about the corners across the street from the school where students waited for the school bus while engaging in some good natured horse play that may have resulted in an old coin being lost?
While to the more experienced Coinshooter this type of thinking may be basic and second nature but by using these simple tips I have found many old coins using the above methods in old parks and schools. Obvious places that many others had given up on as hunted out years ago. Does this type of hunting work every time? "No" But in the long run this type of thinking will help you find older coins that you thought only others found.
When you go coinshooting at an old site hunt the not so obvious areas and the areas you feel have been hunted the least. While you may not have the quantity of finds in the not so obvious areas you will have better quality targets in those areas. If any of you try some of these methods out I would enjoy hearing how you did. Posted on Coinist's MD Forum May 2, 2000